Cinque Terre, outside Riomaggiore
Friday, July 14, 2006
Backpacking Europe - second post
The stone pathway is big enough for two vehicles to squeeze carefully by one another, but very few care to do so. It is mainly for pedestrians, and snakes its way up from the harbour that has been scratched into the rocky cliffs, then up through the town, until finally leaving for the green hills and well-tended gardens of the mountainside. Old, tanned Italian women with leathery skin and sun-squinted eyes cross this street to greet one another, and burly shopowners lift out boxes of impossibly bright fruit onto it - cherries, lemons (grown in the garden up the street), and shiny tomatoes still on their vines. An oil painting waiting to be captured on canvas.
The street is flanked on either side by brightly coloured buildings that blend so well with the sea and hills and sky that they might have grown there naturally, or else their builders had the Medittaranean so deep in their souls that when they went to build, it came out in the form of these beautiful, smooth, colourful buildings. Here there is no rush or feeling of desire for industrialness or production. Mary smiles peacefully over the town from many mini monuments on the walls of the houses, and her soft eyes and hands held palm-upward seem to encourage the inhabitants to take life slowly. Not that they need any more encouragement to do so, as the blanketing warmth of the sun and the wind, heavily scented with sea and flowers, make it the idea of rushing an alien notion.
The church sits on the hillside among the greenery, backed by a lush mountain and perfect blue sky as if to say "I'm here when you need me, but take your time." Its bells chime on the hour. Here in the sleepy village of Riomaggiore, on the Medittaranean Coast in Italy, people know how to live. They have it all right, I think. Good food, warm sun, family, and simple, unpretentious faith. A beautiful setting. What else do you need?
The street is flanked on either side by brightly coloured buildings that blend so well with the sea and hills and sky that they might have grown there naturally, or else their builders had the Medittaranean so deep in their souls that when they went to build, it came out in the form of these beautiful, smooth, colourful buildings. Here there is no rush or feeling of desire for industrialness or production. Mary smiles peacefully over the town from many mini monuments on the walls of the houses, and her soft eyes and hands held palm-upward seem to encourage the inhabitants to take life slowly. Not that they need any more encouragement to do so, as the blanketing warmth of the sun and the wind, heavily scented with sea and flowers, make it the idea of rushing an alien notion.
The church sits on the hillside among the greenery, backed by a lush mountain and perfect blue sky as if to say "I'm here when you need me, but take your time." Its bells chime on the hour. Here in the sleepy village of Riomaggiore, on the Medittaranean Coast in Italy, people know how to live. They have it all right, I think. Good food, warm sun, family, and simple, unpretentious faith. A beautiful setting. What else do you need?
Monday, July 03, 2006
Backpacking Europe - first post
June 1, 2006
Stephanie and I are just now on a train going from La Spezia to Parma. We will then go from Parma to Bologna, and Bologna to Venice. We got up this morning at 7 in order to catch the bus from the camp we are staying at - high in the cliffs overlooking the Meditteranean - into Riomaggiore. Riomaggiore is a tiny Italian town: one of five fishing villages which cling to the cliffs along the south-east coast. They cater a good deal today to the hordes of tourists - many young backpackers like ourselves - who flock to the cliffs every summer for the chance to hike in one of the most beautiful regions of the world. But they still have a strong local small-town feel. Among the backpacks and cameras are men lifiting cement blocks onto trucks, old ladies picking dead buds off their impressive flowers and gardeners tending to trees drooping from the weight of their bright yellow lemons. Italian words fly around with the emphatic lyricism typical to the speakers of that language.
Looking out the window now I am taken aback by how striking the scenery is. I can't believe people are lucky enough to live in this paradise. Huge cliffs, bright blue Medittaranean Sea and massive mountains, covered in deep green forests, fading into the background. All of this against the bluest of blue skies. It seems like the sun is always shining here. The clouds are low and impossibly white and fluffy, and everywhere are wildflowers - purple, yellow. Delicate red poppies sprout up between the railway tracks and at the side of the road. They face the sun and, like everything else here, reflect the essence of beauty and vitality. Even the buildings contribute with smooth colourful walls and flowers that protrude from every corner. Palm trees, cacti...it is all so overwhelming. The landscape is alien, and brings to it a whole new level of impressiveness. During my travels I always think back to home and think that it is still the most beautiful place on earth. But here in Cinque Terre, and South of France, la vie est belle: life is beautiful!
The best part, though, is being here with my sister. She is sitting across from me looking the same as she has since we were 5 and 7 - pencil resting gently against her lips, her brow slightly furrowed, staring intently at the puzzle book in her lap. I don't think Steph could live without a pencil and erasure.
Back to the trip. Paris was grand, although it was possibly the quickest tour of the famous city in world history. Eiffel Tower - check. Arc de Triomphe - check. Champs d'Elysees - check. Esplanade des Invalides - check. The Sacre Coeur was just behind our hostel, and we had a great view of it from our window. One evening we bought a baguette and some brie, and cherries and avocado, and had a snack on the green grass of the hill in front of the Sacre Coeur, with a view of all of Paris! Seeing the sites in Paris was great - it's a very exciting city. We were able to converse easily with the locals, since we both speak French. But it was also the most familiar-feeling city I've been to in Europe, and was very crowded with tourists.
Cannes was beachy and had palm trees. We got there the day after the film festival ended, which was good because it felt somewhat calm and relaxed, and wasn't too crazytouristy. We took a boat to the island and were completely alone for most of the time, exploring the shoreline, looking at the hills and white sailboats and generally soaking up the warm sun and relaxation of a truly summery day.
All this travelling is tiring, but we've seen some amazing places in a short time. Backpacking France and Italy with my sister - fantastique!
Stephanie and I are just now on a train going from La Spezia to Parma. We will then go from Parma to Bologna, and Bologna to Venice. We got up this morning at 7 in order to catch the bus from the camp we are staying at - high in the cliffs overlooking the Meditteranean - into Riomaggiore. Riomaggiore is a tiny Italian town: one of five fishing villages which cling to the cliffs along the south-east coast. They cater a good deal today to the hordes of tourists - many young backpackers like ourselves - who flock to the cliffs every summer for the chance to hike in one of the most beautiful regions of the world. But they still have a strong local small-town feel. Among the backpacks and cameras are men lifiting cement blocks onto trucks, old ladies picking dead buds off their impressive flowers and gardeners tending to trees drooping from the weight of their bright yellow lemons. Italian words fly around with the emphatic lyricism typical to the speakers of that language.
Looking out the window now I am taken aback by how striking the scenery is. I can't believe people are lucky enough to live in this paradise. Huge cliffs, bright blue Medittaranean Sea and massive mountains, covered in deep green forests, fading into the background. All of this against the bluest of blue skies. It seems like the sun is always shining here. The clouds are low and impossibly white and fluffy, and everywhere are wildflowers - purple, yellow. Delicate red poppies sprout up between the railway tracks and at the side of the road. They face the sun and, like everything else here, reflect the essence of beauty and vitality. Even the buildings contribute with smooth colourful walls and flowers that protrude from every corner. Palm trees, cacti...it is all so overwhelming. The landscape is alien, and brings to it a whole new level of impressiveness. During my travels I always think back to home and think that it is still the most beautiful place on earth. But here in Cinque Terre, and South of France, la vie est belle: life is beautiful!
The best part, though, is being here with my sister. She is sitting across from me looking the same as she has since we were 5 and 7 - pencil resting gently against her lips, her brow slightly furrowed, staring intently at the puzzle book in her lap. I don't think Steph could live without a pencil and erasure.
Back to the trip. Paris was grand, although it was possibly the quickest tour of the famous city in world history. Eiffel Tower - check. Arc de Triomphe - check. Champs d'Elysees - check. Esplanade des Invalides - check. The Sacre Coeur was just behind our hostel, and we had a great view of it from our window. One evening we bought a baguette and some brie, and cherries and avocado, and had a snack on the green grass of the hill in front of the Sacre Coeur, with a view of all of Paris! Seeing the sites in Paris was great - it's a very exciting city. We were able to converse easily with the locals, since we both speak French. But it was also the most familiar-feeling city I've been to in Europe, and was very crowded with tourists.
Cannes was beachy and had palm trees. We got there the day after the film festival ended, which was good because it felt somewhat calm and relaxed, and wasn't too crazytouristy. We took a boat to the island and were completely alone for most of the time, exploring the shoreline, looking at the hills and white sailboats and generally soaking up the warm sun and relaxation of a truly summery day.
All this travelling is tiring, but we've seen some amazing places in a short time. Backpacking France and Italy with my sister - fantastique!
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